1985 Chicago
Winter 2025
Beaverton, Oregon
Winter 2025
Beaverton, Oregon
Here is the bottom half of the upper with just the stitched Swoosh and heel. The leather is a smooth pre colored veg tan leather for a durable and comfortable fit that will keep its shape but also be very comfortable, especially when broken in.
The screen printing process has been one of the most challenging aspects and possibly taken a few years off of my life from frustration. Having such a fine and detailed logo on a small screen led to a lot of trial and error and many wasted scraps of leather, but in the end, I was able to get a pretty solid passing of the Wings logo.
I originally wanted to just use a stencil, but because of the coating on the leather, it wouldn’t stick to it. Another option is using a vinyl stencil or foil pressing which is something I am researching for a future pair.
One of the more tedious stages of the shoe making process of Jordan 1s is the vent holes on the toebox. All need to be marked then hammered in using a little tool.
It took a few pairs to get the right materials down, but this pair of tongues and toe boxes have the best comfort and accurate look to those that were made in 1985.
I went with a 1 cm thick density foam with an ironed on cotton outer and mesh inside for the tongue. The binding around the tongue came from the same cotton fabric for a consistent look.
There is a small layer of foam used for them for some cushioning for the toes, but I opted for my own choice of some scuba fabric as it is a bit thicker and won’t compress as much than what is used and provides better comfort.
I then stitch them together and trim off the excess to get prepared for the Lasting stage later.
This is one of my favorite parts of the shoe making process as I am getting close to giving it its shape. I will put some glue where the panels will connect, then use some clamps that have foam under them to press the pieces together to ensure they do not move when I go to stitch them.
The cracked Black collar can also be better viewed here. It was originally some Tan suede which I added a clear hardener too, then painted two layers of Black on before a protective matte clear coat. When the shape starts to form, the cracked look will appear.
When Jordans were made in 1985, various fabrics were used for the collar. All of which have cracked over time so I replicated that here.
The cushioning in the ankle wasn’t particularly great for the originals so I added more there for the best everyday comfort.
The next stage is Lasting by pulling the panels over the shoe last, nailing them in place, then gluing them. Once that is completed I remove the nails, glue the upper to the midsole, then hand stitch the two together thus presenting these final images of a completed pair that closely represents the 1985 Jordan 1 in the Chicago colorway.